Oliver Hall finds Pride and peace in New York’s backyard.
After you’ve danced your heart out under the glitter cannons of New York Pride, or marched through the streets of DC at WorldPride, you might just be craving something that tastes a little less like vodka Red Bull and a lot more like small-batch sake, artisanal chocolate, and crisp Hudson Valley air. Enter Dutchess County — a picturesque, proudly queer-friendly pocket of Upstate New York that feels like a breath of fresh air for rainbow travellers needing a post-Pride pause without losing their connection to culture, history, and community.
And the best part? It’s all just 90 minutes north of New York City by Amtrak, with sweeping river views replacing skyscrapers as your train hugs the banks of the Hudson.
RAINBOW ROOTS IN RURAL RHINEBECK
First stop: Rhinebeck, a historic village that blends Dutch colonial charm with a refreshingly inclusive spirit. Picture restored 17th-century buildings housing boutique shops, friendly cafés, and one of the cutest sweet shops on the East Coast — Samuel’s Sweet Shop — co-owned by none other than Paul Rudd (yes, Ant-Man himself), and serving everything from nostalgic lollies to rich espresso.
Over coffee at Bread Alone, a café that runs on renewable energy and queer energy in equal measure, I met Steve Murray, co-founder of Big Gay Hudson Valley, a hyper-local Pride group that’s been queering the region with events, festivals, and good vibes for over a decade. “We like to say that Pride doesn’t end in June up here,” Steve told me, smiling over a cup of fair-trade brew. “Whether it’s Pride in the Sky on the Walkway Over the Hudson in May or Pride Along the Hudson all summer, there’s always something fabulous happening — and we welcome out-of-town queers with open arms.”
A TASTE OF LUXURY (AND SAKE)
From Rhinebeck, the experience only deepens — and by “deepens”, I mean gets slightly tipsier. In Hyde Park, I took a behind-the-scenes tour at Dassai Blue, the brand-new U.S. branch of Japan’s cult-favourite sake brewery. Here, they’re crafting premium Junmai Daiginjo using New York water and imported rice, all in a sleek facility that’s part science lab, part Zen sanctuary.
The tasting flight? Sublime. Dry, delicate, and designed for sipping slowly — which is exactly the pace Dutchess County seems to run on.
REST LIKE A ROOSEVELT
If you’re looking for an overnight spot that’s equal parts plush and polished, check into The Heartwood at Vassar College in Poughkeepsie. With gallery-worthy art on the walls (courtesy of Vassar alumni) and buttery-soft bedding, it’s exactly the kind of restful luxury your post-Pride body deserves.
GILDED MANSIONS AND GAY HISTORY
While Dutchess County trades in tranquillity, it’s no sleepy backwater. This region punches well above its weight in culture, particularly queer-adjacent history. A visit to the Staatsburgh State Historic Site offers a deliciously opulent peek into Gilded Age grandeur — think marble fireplaces, velvet drapes, and Downton Abbey levels of drama. It’s no coincidence that The Gilded Age name-drops the very couple who once called this place home.
A short drive away, the FDR Presidential Library and Museum provides a powerful counterpoint. Franklin and Eleanor Roosevelt’s legacy is deeply rooted in Dutchess County — and Eleanor, a gay icon if there ever was one, is honoured at her own national historic site, Val-Kill. Touring her modest cottage, filled with mementos from a life spent fighting for human rights, I felt oddly moved. This wasn’t just a history lesson; it was a reminder that the struggle for equality has long had allies in high places.
FOR FOODIES AND FANCY PALATES
Ask any local where to eat and odds are they’ll send you straight to The Culinary Institute of America, known simply — and reverently — as the CIA. This world-class culinary college trains some of the planet’s finest chefs and just so happens to be home to American Bounty, a student-staffed fine dining restaurant that’s all about showcasing the best of the region.
Seasonal produce, Hudson Valley wines, artfully plated dishes that taste as good as they look — American Bounty hits the sweet spot between Michelin-worthy precision and wholesome farm-to-table comfort. And yes, the service is impeccable. That’s because every waiter and chef is a CIA student, meaning you’re being served by tomorrow’s culinary elite, at a fraction of the price you’ll be paying once the students are qualified.
Before lunch, I took part in the CIA Experience Tour, which includes a guided wander through the lush campus, peppered with culinary trivia, a behind-the-scenes look at teaching kitchens, and a sneak peek at where the sausage (and the soufflé) gets made. For food lovers, it’s a must!
ART, NATURE, AND ARCHITECTURE
At Bard College, you’ll find one of the most striking performing arts venues in America: the Fisher Center, a gleaming, Gehry-designed masterpiece that hosts everything from opera to queer cabaret during its annual SummerScape Festival. Whether you’re catching a show or just wandering the peaceful Blithewood Garden nearby, the sense of serenity is hard to beat.
Speaking of wandering, Dutchess County is an outdoor lover’s dream. The Walkway Over the Hudson — the world’s longest elevated pedestrian bridge — offers panoramic views, perfect for a post-brunch stroll or contemplative moment with your best Judy. There are bike trails, river hikes, and even biplane rides at the Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome if you’re feeling daring (or just want an eye-catching new Grindr profile pic).
FROM PRIDE TO PEACE
Dutchess County is not the kind of place you stumble into — it’s somewhere you choose, intentionally, when the glitter has settled and the Instagram stories have stopped looping. It’s a region where you can reconnect with nature, culture, and maybe even yourself.
Steve from Big Gay Hudson Valley said it best: “You don’t need to escape queerness to find peace. Up here, the two exist side by side.”
So next time you’re headed to the States, consider extending your rainbow journey just a little further north. Trust me: your soul (and your hangover) will thank you.
For more info visit destinationdutchess.com/LGBTQ and newyorksbackyardusa.com.
United Airlines is our official WorldPride airline partner, making your Pride dreams take flight! Don’t miss a moment of the festivities – book your flights now at united.com
