Oliver Hall discovers how Ava Nakagawa, founder of Beer Baroness, and business partner Andi Hickey are transforming New Zealand’s craft beer scene with a focus on inclusivity, community, and exceptional brews, like the Queer Bear IPA.
In a Christchurch brew scene steeped in tradition, Ava Nakagawa is a refreshing pour of boldness, wit, and unapologetic inclusivity. As the founder of Beer Baroness, she has spent over a decade challenging the stale notion that beer is a man’s drink. Her mission? To prove that good beer—and good vibes—are for everyone.
From Pub Roots to Hazy Heights
Ava’s journey into brewing began behind the bar at Pomeroy’s Old Brewery Inn, her family’s iconic Christchurch pub. “I started running my family’s pub at 25,” she recalls. “I was so deep in the craft beer movement and thought, hey, why not! I can start my own brand.” That spark led to the creation of Beer Baroness in 2012, initially as a passion project and creative outlet.
With the addition of business partner Andi Hickey in 2016, Beer Baroness began to grow. “Andi is arguably the bigger half of Beer Baroness,” Ava says. “She’s the one who makes it all run while I run around hatching new plans.” Together, they’ve built a brewery that’s as much about community as it is about hops.
Breaking the Beer Binary
From the outset, Ava was determined to disrupt the male-dominated beer industry. “The industry was very male-dominated when I started out,” she explains. “I really wanted to make sure there was other representation and break this idea that only men drink beer.”
She was particularly irked by the patronising marketing of so-called “women’s beers.” “Any beers that were coming out directed to women were ‘light’ or ‘sweet,’ which I found almost as frustrating,” she says. “Beer isn’t gendered, and there’s no such thing as a girl’s beer.”
This conviction led to Beer Baroness’s guiding principle: “beer is for everyone.” It’s more than a slogan; it’s a call to action. “We engage in work that is heart-led and we feel strongly about,” Ava says. “We try to be inclusive and community-focused in all endeavours.”
Queer Bear: A Toast to Inclusion
One of Beer Baroness’s most celebrated collaborations is the limited-edition Queer Bear Hazy IPA, brewed in partnership with Christchurch Pride. “Christchurch Pride is an amazingly run month-long event, and something we were lucky to partner up with,” Ava says. “We worked with the committee—they named it and were part of the process.”
The beer itself is a vibrant blend of Peacherine and late harvest Nelson Sauvin hops, delivering aromas of peach, nectarine, passionfruit, lime zest, and a hint of pink grapefruit. But beyond its flavour profile, Queer Bear serves a greater purpose. “It’s been heartwarming to see so many supermarkets seek it out and stock it nationwide,” Ava notes. “With every purchase, you’re making a meaningful contribution to Christchurch Pride.”
Resilience on Tap
Running a small brewery in Aotearoa comes with its challenges, from economic downturns to global pandemics. “You work in this industry because you love it,” Ava admits. “If the goal is to make money, then you’re shit out of luck!”
The COVID-19 pandemic and subsequent recession hit the industry hard, with rising costs forcing many breweries to close. “We are very lucky to have a retail arm that is Pomeroy’s,” Ava says. “It’s been a tough time for the whole industry in NZ.” Their strategy? Sustainable growth and a passionate team. “We have never wanted to take over the world. We want to make good beer and have fun doing it.”
A More Inclusive Future
Ava is optimistic about the direction of the craft beer scene. “Yes, it is becoming more inclusive—well, at least in the spaces I hang out in!” she says. “Don’t get me wrong, it’s still very male-dominated, but it’s changing.”
Her advice to aspiring brewers from underrepresented communities is straightforward: “Find a person that sees it like you do and go for it. Ignore the noise and stay true to your message, as ultimately you’ll find yourself brewing beers like Queer Bear that make your heart sing!”
The Baroness’s Legacy
Beyond the brewery, Ava’s influence extends to the broader beer community. She was the founding chair of the New Zealand chapter of the Pink Boots Society, an organisation supporting women in brewing. “From the beginning, Beer Baroness has been a focal point for supporting women in the brewing industry,” notes Tim Newman in Pursuit of Hoppiness. “Ava and Andi are the co-owners of the Beer Baroness label and lay claim to being the only fully female-owned craft beer brand in the country.”
Ava’s face once adorned the labels of her beers, a bold statement in an industry where women are often invisible. “It was never my intention to have my own face on the brand,” she says. “We’ve recently rebranded with the concept that every woman is a beer baroness.”
Final Sip
In a world where beer has long been marketed with machismo, Ava Nakagawa is crafting a different narrative—one where everyone is welcome, and every pint tells a story of inclusion, resilience, and joy. So next time you raise a glass of Queer Bear or any Beer Baroness brew, know that you’re not just enjoying a damn good beer; you’re toasting to a more inclusive world.
If that’s got you feeling thirsty visit beerbaroness.co.nz
