YOUR EX’s Oliver Hall discovers Nelson is a sun-soaked, arts-forward city offering cultural festivals, boutique wineries, luxury stays, and queer-friendly experiences that feel like home.
There is a point, driving the curve of the coastline into Nelson, where the world suddenly turns postcard-perfect. The road sweeps around sunlit bays, hills fold softly into the sea, and you get that unmistakable twinge of “this is going to be special.”
If Wellington is the cultural heartbeat of the North, Nelson is its warm, sun-drenched southern cousin: creative, proud, community-forward, and as beautiful as New Zealand gets.
This is the birthplace of World of WearableArt, the home of some of Aotearoa’s most compelling galleries, and one of the country’s sunniest regions. But what truly sets Nelson apart is not just the scenery — it is the way its people show up.
Whether it is a parade, a circus show, a Rat Pack revival, or a vineyard concert on a Sunday afternoon, Nelson locals appear in full force and with full enthusiasm. Nowhere is that more evident than at the Nelson Arts Festival, a carefully curated, joyful celebration of performance, storytelling, and community.
Founded with bold creative leadership, including former director Lidia Zanetti whose queer sensibility propelled the festival into a new era, the festival is now in the hands of artistic director Janelle Bish, whose programming is both thoughtful and confidently curated.
What makes Nelson’s festival distinct is that it is not a gamble. Most shows perform for one night only, and everything feels chosen with care. We saw several performances and did not hit a single dud.
While the art may have drawn us in, the hospitality, sunshine, and sea-soaked charm kept us blissfully captive. No trip to Nelson is complete without visiting Tahunanui Beach, a sweeping, mountain-framed paradise perfect for swimming or paddleboarding.
The Small City That Shows Up
We arrived in the city to free street parking (an underrated luxury) and the unmistakable thump of drums echoing down the street.
The annual Mask Parade & Carnivale had kicked off on Upper Trafalgar Street — a riot of colour and collective joy that felt like half the city had spilled onto the streets. Families, performers, school kids, dogs wearing tutus — it was a full-community embrace.
The vibe was instantly warm and open. Within minutes we had chatted with the mayor and watched dance troupes float past as restaurants overflowed with locals cheering the marchers on.
There is something rare about a festival where you genuinely feel like you are witnessing a whole town celebrating itself.
Galleries were also buzzing across the CBD, with The Suter, Nelson Provincial Museum, and Refinery ArtSpace all presenting festival-linked installations. Nelson’s arts identity runs deep — you can feel it in the way people talk about the festival like an annual pilgrimage.
Pihopa Retreat: Where Luxury Becomes a Love Language
If you are looking to splurge on a romantic escape — proposal, anniversary, or the kind of queer-luxury getaway where you both bring three outfit changes for breakfast — Nelson has a secret weapon: Pihopa Retreat (pihoparetreat.co.nz).
Tucked behind stately gates and surrounded by towering century-old trees, Pihopa feels like the love child of a Hamptons estate and a contemporary luxury lodge. There are just six suites, each one an elegant, thoughtfully designed sanctuary.
Think fireplaces you can watch from bed, deep bathtubs for two, walk-in wardrobes, and balconies overlooking rolling grounds.
The toiletries are locally made, the loose-leaf teas are premium, the complimentary mini-bar is actually worth getting excited about, and the house-made cookies and cakes placed in the room feel personal — and delicious.
Breakfast is served in a beautiful historic former chapel, now gently repurposed into a serene dining space. It is the kind of breakfast that rivals the best brunch spots in Auckland or Wellington — beautifully plated, generous, and cooked to order by someone who cares deeply about the details.
And then there is the early evening ritual: complimentary canapés and drinks in the poolside bar, a hushed, luxurious way to ease into the night.
If you are after romance, indulgence, or simply a few days of feeling like your highest self, Pihopa is unrivalled in the region.
Nelson by Night
If there is a place that captures Nelson’s artsy, unpretentious cool, it is The Dog’s Bone (@thedogsbone), a self-declared dive bar built from donated materials and fuelled by craft beer, stacked burgers, and genuine camaraderie.
We arrived on open mic night, expecting a casual vibe. Instead, we walked into a full scene. High-calibre performers, creatives drifting in from festival shows, long-time locals cheering from the bar. It is scrappy, queer-friendly, arty, and distinctively Nelson.
We followed with a drink at Bamboo Tiger (@bambootigernelson) which boasts velvety red interiors, a glamorous garden bar, and the best espresso martinis I have ever tasted.
This is the late-night jewel in Nelson’s crown. Owned by the team behind Auckland’s G.A.Y and Family Bar, it channels disco energy, tiki-bar cheekiness, and a mixed, eclectic crowd.
Live acoustic sets warm the night before the DJ takes over. This is the place to be if you want to dance.
A Warm Welcome in the Heart of the City
For a more intimate, home-style stay, Nelson’s gay-owned Ah House (ahhouse.co.nz) offers the perfect combination of comfort, hospitality, and unbeatable location.
Hosts Mark and John are the kind of people who instantly make you feel like you have arrived at a favourite auntie’s house — if your aunties had spotless rooms and a penchant for going above and beyond.
Breakfast arrives either on your balcony or quietly to your room, depending on your mood. Rooms range from a stylish garden suite to a cosy apartment beneath the main house. The best part is you can walk everywhere. The city is literally on your doorstep.
Our Top Pick of the Arts Festival
That day we saw three Arts Festival shows and our favourite had to be the incomparable Māori musical duo, Retene Spooner and Shea Kokaua — The Velvet Rebels.
The pair took the crowd on a lush journey through Rat Pack classics, including a rendition of Fly Me to the Moon that left the audience so in awe that you could hear a pin drop.
Spooner (@rutenespooner) in particular is a world-class talent that everyone should try to see live.
Unexpectedly Cosmopolitan Dining
Nelson’s dining scene surprised us — and nowhere more so than Bar Rosa (barrosa.co.nz), a moody, bustling Italian restaurant that feels plucked from Barcelona or Rio.
The moment we stepped in, locals were stopping manager Edoardo to tell him how grateful they were to have this place in their city.
The food was sublime — rich, elegant, deeply satisfying. Do not miss the free-range porchetta, and for dessert, the honey butter tart.
The ambiance was sophisticated and humming. The kind of restaurant it is worth planning your whole trip around.
Expanding Out to Moutere’s Vineyards
Leaving Nelson for a day or overnight trip feels like stepping directly into a scene from a wine label. Gentle hills, boutique vineyards, artist studios, and small-town warmth define the Tasman region, and it is all an easy, scenic drive.
Our accommodation here was Windhover Estate (windhoverestate.com), an ideal base for exploring the region. Suites are fully equipped for longer stays, and guests of the main house or stables have access to a stunning infinity pool overlooking the coastline of Kina Beach.
This is truly one of the most serene spots we have experienced. If you are planning a celebration, their Beach House sits right on the sand and can be rented for the day.
Sunshine, wine flights, and an idyllic rural setting define Moutere Hills Restaurant & Cellar Door (mouterehills.co.nz), which is where we headed for lunch. The menu is refined and beautifully plated, offering fresh, seasonal flavours and wines to match.
It is the sort of lunch that restores your soul a little. We loved the colourful fresh salmon crudo and lively “Textures of Orange” cake.
If seeing a beloved Aotearoa artist at an outdoor vineyard concert sounds dreamy, that is because it is.
Anna Coddington, performing under the late-afternoon sun at Neudorf Vineyard (neudorf.co.nz), was a highlight of our entire trip.
Coddington’s talent deserves to make her a household name like Bic Runga or Anika Moa. Hearing her live with a glass of wine grown on the very vines we were sitting between was a blissful way to spend the afternoon.
Mapua’s Boutique Bliss
Mapua is a sunny, colourful hub of creativity, full of boutique shops, galleries, roasteries, and artists’ spaces, positioned around an idyllic wharf.
After wandering through stores like Delicious Homewares and Coolstore Gallery, we settled into Rimu Grove’s Wine Bar (rimugrove.co.nz) for tasting trees — five small pours elegantly perched on a wooden stand. A vineyard’s version of a flight, and a really fun way to explore regional wines.
Sitting quite literally over the water at Mapua Wharf, The Apple Shed (appleseed.co.nz) might be one of New Zealand’s most idyllic dining settings.
Warm service, seasonal dishes, and that shimmering harbour view — it is romance and relaxation distilled.
We recommend indulging in the house-smoked blue warehou croquettes and the slow-braised beef tri-tip with a side of Apple Shed crispy potatoes to experience the best in modern Kiwi fare.
The Nelson Tasman region does not just welcome you — it wraps around you. It is warm and artsy, with a genuine community spirit flowing through everything here.
It is a city that shows up for its artists, its events, its people, and for you — the traveller who arrives expecting a good time and leaves already planning the next one.
If you are looking for beauty, creativity, queer-friendly hospitality, and a festival that gets curation right, Nelson is waiting.
