YOUR EX’s Oliver Hall discovers a harbour town where independent businesses thrive by championing each other
Sitting on the edge of its spectacular harbour, Akaroa has the kind of beauty that makes you want to slow down and stay awhile. Its Māori history, French colonial influence and position within the dramatic Banks Peninsula landscape give the town a character entirely its own. Just as striking is its tight-knit community of independent businesses. Locals enthusiastically recommend one another, producers stock each other’s wares, and there is a sense that everyone understands that a better Akaroa experience benefits the whole town.
Akaroa Butchery + Deli
If you have booked self-catering accommodation, make this your first stop. Owners T Dunn and Julia Atkinson-Dunn champion independent New Zealand producers alongside meats and small-batch goods made in-store.
We grab one of their gorgeous totes that Julia has designed with Ico Trading, and fill it with store-made NZ pork sausages, free-farmed bacon, Akaroa salmon, Barry’s Bay cheeses, artisan crackers and dips. It is less a butcher shop than a beautifully curated pantry of Aotearoa, and no food-loving visit feels complete without dropping in. akaroabutchery.nz
Akaroa Stargazing
Akaroa Stargazing offers daytime and evening astronomy experiences, led by a family-run team. Founder Luca previously worked as an astronomy guide at the University of Canterbury Mt John Observatory before establishing the business in 2022.
He combines an academic delight in astrophysics and astronomy with uniquely Italian charisma. During our private session, he explains that our Sun is currently white but will eventually become a red giant. “I wonder if we’ll tan differently when it changes colour?” I ask. Luca congratulates me on my silly question, reassuring me that a silly question is very different from a stupid one. Wise, funny and infectious in his enthusiasm, he makes this an Akaroa must. akaroastargazing.com
Black Cat Cruises
Akaroa is famous for its population of Hector’s dolphins, but the wildlife is only part of the appeal of Black Cat Cruises’ two-hour Nature Cruise. You are travelling through an ancient volcanic crater, surrounded by dramatic sea cliffs and spectacular Banks Peninsula scenery.
Hector’s dolphins provide delightful splashes along the way, while New Zealand fur seals lounge on rocky outcrops and seabirds soar overhead. Even if the dolphins are feeling shy, the harbour itself is the star. blackcat.co.nz
Ma Maison
With harbour views and an inviting dining conservatory soaking up the sun, Ma Maison makes a gorgeous waterfront dinner spot.
On our visit, house-baked bread arrives with smoked cheddar fondue before spicy prawn and pāua dumplings and Akaroa’s famously fresh salmon. The drinks list is equally tempting. The Le Bons Bay Apple Pie cocktail, mixing vodka and apple juice with bitters and cinnamon syrup, is a fabulous warmer. mamaison.co.nz
The Locals Recommend…
Ask around town and recommendations arrive quickly. Start with cracking croissants from A La Baguette, then head next door to Crater Café for excellent coffee and cabinet food. Nomad Wholefoods is the spot for organic and spray-free vegetables, while The Seafood Kitchen builds its changing menu around fresh, sustainably sourced seafood that is impeccably prepared. For wine and a view, locals point towards Caldera Vineyard Estate, while Shamarra Alpacas, home to more than 170 curious residents, provides a guaranteed cuteness overload!
