Just when you thought your Mardi Gras FOMO couldn’t get any worse, Australia’s LGBTQ+ Mecca keeps giving us reasons to return.
We start our stay by checking in at the QT Sydney (@QTSydneyHotel). There are few hotel chains that I have as much faith in as the QT. Every branch is unique and seamlessly blends into its surroundings. The QT Sydney (qthotels.com) is no exception, with its art deco take on its Market Street building’s gothic architectural elements that sit right next door to Sydney’s iconic State Theatre. QT Sydney features 200 meticulously designed rooms and suites, each adorned with bespoke furnishings and modern amenities. My guess is once you’ve stayed at a QT, you’ll never book an Airbnb again.
The QT Sydney occupies a building that used to house the iconic Sydney menswear store Gowings. Anyone familiar with Sydney gay men of a certain age will know at least a handful of people who worked at Gowings, and the hotel embraces this history with fun nods to fashions of the past while keeping original features (like the gorgeous polished wood floors) intact. The QT has even named its bar and grill ‘Gowings’, which is led by star chef Sean Connolly.
There’s an unscripted, anything-goes feel at QT Sydney, which is particularly prominent when their signature QTea High Tea is served. The lobby fills with Motown classics spun by handsome DJ Hamo, as a modern twist on a traditional high tea party features delicacies crafted by renowned pâtissier Adriano Zumbo. We would stay and play, but the city’s queer cultural hot spot waits for no man!
Qtopia (qtopiasydney.com) is an LGBTQIA+ museum dedicated to celebrating and preserving the rich history and culture of Australia’s queer community and is the world’s largest centre for queer history, encompassing over 1,750 square metres across three distinct sites.
Qtopia’s main building is a heritage-listed former police station—the same station where the arrested 78’ers were held (you can even visit their cramped cells). The station was decommissioned in 1987 and became an HIV counselling centre, then office space, before being transformed into Qtopia, which opened in February last year and has since been visited by over 15,000 people.
Prior to my visit, I wondered if Qtopia might be a ‘heavy’ and depressing place, but it is a thoughtful celebration of our culture and the progress our communities have made. Some of our favourite exhibitions included ‘BE:DAZZLED – Sydney Gay & Lesbian Mardi Gras Costume Extravaganza’, ‘The Male Body Is Still Taboo – 25 Years of DNA’, and ‘Kylie Minogue & Queer Devotion’.
Qtopia’s other two venues are The Substation and The Toilet Block, both located at 136 Oxford Street, Taylor Square—where men daringly used to cruise right in front of the police station! The toilet block now features an atmospheric exhibition dedicated to cruising, even giving lesbian sex-on-site venues a shout-out, while The Substation is an intimate live performance space.
The final part of Qtopia is its Loading Dock Theatre (@QtopiaSydney), situated in the main building. Qtopia Sydney’s 2025 theatre season features a bold and diverse lineup of performances. We saw the Outback-set trans fairytale ‘Chasing Dick: A Love Story’, which felt completely unique—something you would only see in a primarily queer venue.
For dinner, we head to Island Radio (@island.radio), a vibrant Southeast Asian-inspired restaurant and bar in Redfern. Opened in late 2024, the venue offers a lively atmosphere with a menu that draws inspiration from the street foods of Singapore, Indonesia, and Malaysia.
Walking into Island Radio, it instantly feels like the exciting vibe you want from a Sydney restaurant, complementing this hot, sexy city with burnt orange walls, modern and ornate globe lighting, and a live DJ spinning playful tunes. Even the toilets feel like a nightclub—darkly lit with disco balls hanging from the ceiling.
Menu highlights included the Crispy Duck Lumpia and the smoky Sambal Fried Rice.
Following our mouth-watering meal at Island Radio, we head upstairs to the brand-new bar perched above it, Baptist Street Rec. Club (@baptiststreetrecclub). The owner of both establishments explained that Island Radio was built around the concept of five Aussie friends travelling all around Asia and then creating a restaurant based on their favourite elements of their travels. Baptist, meanwhile, reimagines the same friends instead travelling to the Australian Outback, resulting in a neighbourhood bar that balances laid-back charm with late-night energy.
The space leans into offbeat Australiana, with walls packed with framed nods to the ’80s and ’90s—from gig flyers and cult movie posters to iconic ads and newspaper headlines. This is paired with fabulously camp retro cocktails like the Japanese Slipper (made with yuzucello) and a White Russian crafted with burnt butter vodka and maple cream.
To blow out the cobwebs, the next day we take on the renowned 6-kilometre Bondi to Coogee Walk, a coastal trail that typically takes about two to three hours to complete. Beginning at Sydney’s vibrant Bondi Beach, we pass Tamarama, Bronte, and Clovelly beaches before reaching Coogee, where a lively beer at the Coogee Bay Hotel awaits!
Exhausted and with a knot in my shoulder, it’s time for a change of pace. Back at QT Sydney, their fabulous SpaQ awaits (qthotels.com). This luxurious day spa gives guests the option of beginning any session with a hammam-inspired steam and ice room, designed to relax and prepare the body for subsequent treatments. This was exactly what I needed. As I sit in the steam on monochromatic tiles, I realise how in awe I am of the QT’s designs—this hammam feels like a slice of Tunisia, planted in the centre of Sydney.
I opt for a Relax Massage, but I’ve heard wonderful things about their more adventurous Coffee & Sea Kelp Contour Wrap, which I’ll bear in mind for next time.
For dinner, we are lucky enough to experience Kiln (kilnsydney.com), a renowned restaurant and bar perched atop the 18th floor of the Ace Hotel Sydney in Surry Hills. Helmed by Chef-Partner Beau Clugston, Kiln marries Australia’s native ingredients with Scandinavian culinary philosophy. Clugston, originally from New South Wales, brings over two decades of international experience, including time at Copenhagen’s esteemed Noma restaurant.
While we’ve eaten at numerous top-floor (and top-tier) restaurants, there’s something about Kiln’s edge that feels like the future of hospitality.
Our mature waitress, with an avant-garde undercut, tells us,
“If you go to Tokyo and just stay at ground level, you’re only scratching the surface. It finally feels like Australia is catching up to that.”
It might not be as classy as Kiln, but our trip wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Oxford Street. We are lured first to Universal (@universalsydney) for a Drag Race viewing party hosted by star drag queen, Vibe! Many of the viewers stay on to dance the night away there, but we press on to Stonewall (@stonewallhotel), a venue that barely seems to have changed in the last 25 years. They even still host their iconic ‘Malebox’ every Wednesday, where singles can pass ‘love letters’ to each other. Much more fun than the apps! On a weekend, the best time to be had on Oxford Street is at Palms (@palmsonoxford), which has a similar atmosphere to a fun, drunk wedding party.
The following hungover morning, Parlour at QT Sydney (@parloursydney) offers fabulous à la carte breakfasts (don’t miss the crab omelette) with local juices and perfect coffee. Open throughout the day, at night this neo-French bistro offers an ambience reminiscent of an intimate Parisian dining room.
The restaurant is helmed by Creative Director Sean Connolly and Head Chef Kenny Radegonde, and features both classic and avant-garde French dishes. Be sure to try the escargot and pork terrine!
For a more relaxed change of pace, we check into the West Hotel (westhotel.com.au), which is part of Hilton’s Curio Collection and feels like a slice of boutique heaven. Located a stone’s throw from Darling Harbour, the West’s ambient dark lobby is a great introduction to the centred, meditative stay the hotel offers. Check-in (and out) is a breeze. The West’s exclusive feel is further highlighted when we walk past other hotels whose lobbies resemble the chaos of a busy airport.
We recommend splashing out on one of the West Hotel’s spacious suites, located on their highest floors for the best views. All rooms feature elegant, masculine interiors, with gorgeous wood panelling and very comfortable orthopaedic beds. The bathrooms use grey stone tiles juxtaposed with white marble vanities and a huge, heavenly bathtub alongside a dark walk-in rainwater shower.
On the hotel’s ground level, restaurant and bar, Solander (@west_hotelsyd) boasts a plant-filled, open-air atrium (perfect for party hire). This is our favourite spot to enjoy breakfast in the morning. At night, Solander becomes an intimate cocktail bar with some of the most fabulous bar food options you can find in the city and a decadent cocktail menu!
You can’t come to Sydney without visiting arguably the world’s most iconic arts venue, the Sydney Opera House (sydneyoperahouse.com). This architectural world wonder boasts seven venues, from the Concert Hall (2,664 capacity), Joan Sutherland Theatre (1,507), Drama Theatre (544), Playhouse (398), Studio (600), the Utzon Room for functions, and the Forecourt for outdoor events.
We saw the brilliant gay play, ‘Feeling Afraid As If Something Terrible Is Going To Happen’, at the Playhouse. This is a solo show from the producers of the original Baby Reindeer stage play, which felt like it could be just as successful! The Opera House’s 2025 schedule includes the ever-changing adventure ‘Dungeons and Dragons: The Twenty-Sided Tavern’, the Ruth Bader Ginsburg tribute ‘RBG: One of Many’, synth giants New Order, and romantic crooners Air Supply. This should be on everyone’s bucket list!
What better way to follow that than with dinner at Altitude Restaurant (@shangrilasydney), located on the 36th floor of the Shangri-La Sydney in The Rocks. Offering panoramic views of Sydney Harbour (including the Opera House and Harbour Bridge), the restaurant’s menu is curated seasonally by Executive Sous Chef Michele Menegazzi and Head Pastry Chef Kumiko Endo. Meanwhile, the wine list features exclusively Australian selections, highlighting both emerging producers and rare vintages.
As much as I was looking forward to dining at Altitude and taking in the spectacular views, I had wondered if this ‘white linen’ experience might feel a little stuffy. I needn’t have worried. The service, while meticulous, also felt very personal and relaxed. As fantastic as the views are, what really kept us buzzing was the extraordinary food. The Lunar New Year five-course set menu featured a number of dishes I would never have dreamed of ordering—yet each was phenomenal. From the best oysters I have ever tried to smoked eel mousse (something I would literally never order), which now leaves me salivating at the thought of it as I type. I would not consider going back to Sydney without a reservation at Altitude on my agenda.
The same can be said for the Sydney Theatre Company (sydneytheatre.com.au). A massive success story that has been pivotal in improving Sydney’s reputation as Australia’s arts hub—a title previously held by Melbourne. Many credit this to visionary Artistic Director Kip Williams, whom your ex has interviewed before.
Their 2025 season includes: Picnic at Hanging Rock, The Dictionary of Lost Words, Bloom, The Talented Mr. Ripley and The Shiralee. Be sure to see at least one!
Following our night of culture, we head to the Hyatt Regency Sydney for a late dinner at Sailmaker Restaurant (sailmakerrestaurant.com.au). The Seafarer Dinner is an elevated seafood experience, beginning with a Mediterranean tapas table. From there, guests can select from six entrées and six mains, including dishes like Fremantle octopus and Skull Island prawns. The meal concludes with a dessert trolley featuring classics such as Banoffee Tart and Tres Leches (@hyattregencysydney).
From Sailmaker, we head up to Level 12 of the Hyatt Regency, to Zephyr Sky Bar (zephyrbarsydney.com)—a luxury rooftop bar offering panoramic views of Darling Harbour—for a nightcap. As the lights of Darling Harbour twinkle, we enjoy their Midnight Mocha Martinis. However, if you’re there with a group, try their Super Star—a vodka-based cocktail that serves either six or twelve, and is served in a giant disco ball with sparklers!
For our final night, we visit Mov’in Bed (movinbed.com)—the world’s largest outdoor bed cinema! Until 23 March, Mov’in Bed transforms Barangaroo’s Harbour Park into a city beach, featuring 280 tonnes of white sand and 150 plush queen-size beds. I have never seen anything like it before—this ‘bed cinema’ is nestled between Sydney’s skyscrapers with the stars twinkling above. We snag one of the two most sought-after VIP beds—provided by West Hotel for real luxury—all while being served strong frozen cocktails and enjoying our movie’s sound through state-of-the-art headphones.
A night, and indeed a holiday, to remember!
Article | Oliver Hall.
